My Top 7 Onsen Experiences in Japan
Soaking in good memories
It is almost 2 years I have been in Japan. During this time, the hot baths have been an obsession. A place to wash, a chance to catch up with friends, and somewhere to escape the distractions of Tokyo life. There is something so utterly civilised about this communal experience.
Ranging from totally wild open-air notenburo “野天風呂” onsen, through traditional Japanese inn Ryokans, to the modern Super Sento “スーパー銭湯" - essentially a nudist theme park with massage, outdoor seating areas, and various baths to keep you occupied for hours on end.
In cities you mostly find artificial local sentos , which are functional and an important part of the local community. Sadly, these are disappearing at an alarming rate due to spread of home baths, regional redevelopment, and other causes. I am inspired by the work of the Sento-to-Machi team that is working to protect these public baths and the associated culture.
Where nature allows, onsens are the baths with naturally heated spring water. The law states that mineralised hot spring water feeding an onsen must be at least 25 °C originating at a depth of at least 1.5 kilometres, and contain specified amounts of minerals such as sulphur, sodium, iron, or magnesium. They are varied and unique. I would like to share some of my experiences. I couldn’t pick a favourite, so here are 7 1/2:
Nakadake Onsen, close to the summit of Asahidake, the tallest mountain in Hokkaido
The wildest of them all. Nestled in a steep gorge on the Northern side of Asahidake, this onsen was a goal of mine for many weeks. Having been assured the risk of encountering bears at -30degC. mid winter was almost zero, if a bear was going to be wandering the mountain this time of year I feared it would probably be keeping itself warm in my onsen.
A short walk from the top of Asahidake Ropeway in the summer, it is a little more challenging in winter. I ski toured from the village via the summit of Asahidake, leaving the onsen as a reward towards the end of a 20km / ↑1,500m loop.
Having already removed my clothes, I soon realised one of the features of a truly wild onsen is the need to regulate the temperature yourself. This left me stuck between a scalding sulphurous pool and standing by the side in an unforgivably eccentric outfit (nothing but a wooly hat). Dumping blocks of snow in the water could only maintain a reasonable temperature for a few seconds. The solution.. to position a few rocks just above the waterline, and perch myself between them, trying to ensure as much of my body was in the “safe zone” 5-15 cm above the water. Combined with a hand-water-mill to constantly splash my body with the hot water, and drinking what was left of the tea in my flask, it was very pleasant. Putting on cold ski boots, with wet feet, and numb hands, was however a different matter.
Fukiage Onsen, at the base of ski-mountaineering mecca in Furano
The Fukiage Hot Spring resort is the best facility I have been to, with mens/womens/mixed baths, and a sauna with a nice ice-cold plunge pool. Each has 4 outdoor pools that cater to different needs, starting hot for the ojisan attempting to boil themselves, cascading down to more reasonable temperatures for those with functioning skin receptors and the long haulers. There is a spectacular view of Sandan Yama, Maetokachi Tashi crater and other mountains in the Furano range whose westward faces bask in pink-orange glow at sunset.
To top it off, there is also an open air onsen a stone throw away. A short walk through the forest, it’s a really special spot.
Goshiki Onsen, not so far from Nisseko
Another onsen best accessed by skis, and an ideal stopover after descending the backcountry on the Western face of Niseko’s Annupuri mountain or as a base camp for touring around Iwaonupuri. It is a traditional hotel with a rustic feel, a welcome contrast to the ski resorts the other side of the mountain. There is so much snow, the outdoor bath doesn’t have a fence . Instead, you are almost encased by the wall of snow that leaves only pocket of sky directly above you.
Nozawa Onsen
Ok.. one more skiing place! It is hard to beat an onsen in the snow so I think my bias is justified. Not to say you can’t visit Nozawa in the summer, which is also lovely. The village is gushing with hot water that supplies over 13 onsens, which are free to enter, very minimal, and often super hot.
It is a collective effort to maintain the temperature in each bath, periodically turning on the cold tap and giving the bath a good stir. Though timing is crucial, as you don’t want to drop it too low before group of hardened regular ojisan arrive. I will painfully endure the heat until someone else flinches, letting them make the big decision, before enthusiastically taking on the stirring duties in gratitude. Unsettling the water creates a cloud with all the mineral particles, known as the “湯の花 - yunohana” onsen flowers.
Renge Onsen, a mountain lodge and open air baths in Niigata
I visited here in 2023, and it was so good we had to come back again this year. At 1500m in the Northern Alps, the baths are the perfect place to escape the Tokyo heat. You can access from the Tsugaike gondola, climbing a few hours to Mt. Norikura and then down past Shirouma lake. Otherwise, there is a winding road from Otari. Having accidentally missed the bus, we decided to walk the road anyway, falsely enticed by a fork museum which was in fact a folk museum. Although we were not disappointed on the cutlery front, as it turned out this village used to be a renowned producer of shikki “漆器” bowls used in formal meals. Harvesting local timber, turning by lathe, and then painting with a dye made from urushi sap, the “kijiya” woodworkers produce perfect little red bowls that have received the seal of approval from daimyos for over 400 years. Considering the village only has four remaining residents, the museum is an impressive labour of love and record of a craftsmanship that might soon to be lost.
Shimosuwa, a characterful town on the northern edge of Suwa Lake
An onsen selection of various temperatures. After dedicated training in Nozawa Onsen (see above), 44degC is my preference, although only a smidgen hotter at 45degC I reach my absolute limit. Suwa has a couple of onsen that go up to 47.. which is simply ridiculous.
Apart from the baths, the town is home to the ReBuilding Centre, a business that works in renovation and rescue of old Japanese houses, and also sells salvaged goods. Partly thanks to their work, there are many preserved buildings in Suwa, and if I had to choose a place to live in Japan.. it could well be here. Not to mention some very good restaurants and access to the Japanese Alps.
Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, an ocean rock pool in spectacular Yakushima
This onsen ranks low in terms of comfort. But probably the best in terms of dramatic scenery.
The problem is the hot water comes through tiny holes in the rock. And the cold water comes quite literally in waves from the ocean. While the average temperate might be perfect, you get a very hot bum and a disappointed rest of body.
The upside is a backdrop of Yakushima Island, with towering forested mountains of Yakusugi cedar trees. And the roaring ocean on all sides. I was lucky to visit during a full moon, which was a bonus. It is important to visit at low tide, otherwise the pool is completely submerged.
Honourable mention - Oyabu Onsen
There are not so many options in Shikoku, putting aside Matsuyama. I found this onsen on a cycling trip from Uchiko. It is not particularly remarkable, but it was like finding an oasis in the desert. An old guesthouse in a beautiful valley.